The plane stopped off in Guayaquil which I think is the other big city in Ecuador. After landing in Baltra we took a squashed standing room only bus to a small ferry followed by a not quite so crowded bus to Puerto Ayora, the main settlement on Santa Cruz.

We dropped our gear on the boat (via a Zodiac IRB transfer), then back on land for a walk around the Charles Darwin Research Station. Here we saw some of the 13 species of tortoise that inhabit these islands, including “Lonesome George” the last male of a particular species of tortoise, who refuses to do the manly thing with either of the two remaining females. With such a small gene pool the species is probably doomed anyway, but it is both eerie and disturbing to look upon the last example of a living creature.

We returned to the boat for a lovely meal before a briefing on tomorrow’s activities and an early night.

Our cabin is below deck and the sound of the engine is a constant companion. Our twin bunk cabin with private bathroom is about the size of our walk-in wardrobe at home. My bunk is so close to the roof, I am afraid that if I get an erection during the night I will be pinned to my bed.

We “sail” (an unusual term to use for a stink boat) at midnight, so if I do get used to the engine enough to get to sleep, it will probably wake me them. We shall see.

The shiny tiles, the uncomfortable seats, and a PA system that sounds as if it was constructed from poly-pipe – we must be in an airport. Luckily it is only 15 minutes till boarding although I still might have to be woken before we leave. We are now more than half way through our trip and have almost seen the last of the big cities (airports and one night in Quito excluded).
We are flying TAME, which I think is our fifth airline for the trip, having flown Air Tahiti, LAN, Star Peru and Air Peru. It is a four hour journey so hopefully we get fed at least once.